Peru's Crown Jewel
A conversation with surfer Miguel Vegas, General Manager of Chicama Boutique Hotel, about life near the world’s longest left: Chicama.
What brought you to Chicama and what about Chicama, or Peru in general, do you love the most?
Miguel Vegas: I've been surfing for over 36 years now and working in the adventure travel industry for about 20. The owners of Chicama Boutique Hotel were looking for someone with the capacity to run the place, and after a recruiting process, they hired me as general manager of the company. What I love the most about Peru, though, is its cultural and geographical diversity. From vast beaches and long waves, to the incredible Andes Mountains, to the Amazon jungle… But of course: Peru’s people, who are super friendly and welcoming. I think what I love the most about Chicama, though, is its energy that helps you connect with nature, the solitude of the desert, and the rawness of its extremely long and perfect waves.
Awesome. I’ve been to Chicama before, and it’s definitely a wonder. Have you ever seen people ride the wave for the full 2km, or however long it is? What type of swell would do that?
Well, from the main point to the pier, the distance is actually about 2.2km. It is a difficult task to surf it all the way through and not because it is sectiony or impossible, but mainly because at a certain point your legs start to burn and you do not have the energy for those extra pumps.
Oh, wow.
Yeah. [laughs] Personally, I do prefer the medium to big SW swells that make the wave more perfect and connect all sections from the main point to the pier. I've seen several people make it all the way to the last section but only a few people have made it all the way from where the wave begins until the end—and that's only been possible by surfers using a foil.
Right. I remember having to do some long walks back up the point after a few waves. Do you have boats or JetSkis for guests to get rides back out to the main point?
Yeah, so besides being known as one of the longest waves in the world (some call it THE longest), in addition to that, there is a strong current that runs from south to north that makes it almost impossible to paddle back out to the point. For that we do offer a tow-back service with our Zodiacs from the end of the wave back to the takeoff. This service allows you to take more waves optimizing your surf session. You can add this service to your reservation or book it at the hotel’s front desk, actually. We also offer private boat services, too, which is pretty helpful for towing people on their foils. Not to mention, our boat captains are really good local surfers that have been trained and certified in driving boats in stormy seas and in rescue techniques. They know the break and waters really well.
Epic. And with a few of those sections to the wave, is Chicama good for beginners as well? Are there other waves nearby if Chicama is too small?
The wave in Chicama is perfect for beginners, intermediate and advanced surfers. It peels perfectly from beginning to end and it’s a very forgiving wave, especially for intermediate surfers to help them get to the next level. Close to Chicama we have two other great spots. Pacasmayo, which is a bigger, stronger wave that is almost as long a wave as Chicama. When Chicama is very small, Pacasmayo is a good choice, as there are always waves there. When there’s a swell you can also find bigger, more powerful waves in Pacasmayo than at Chicama, too. The best swells for Pacasmayo are Southwest. The other is Poémape, usually surfed when Chicama is small, very early in the morning and at low tide. If you are lucky and you get there when it is aligned, it is one of the best beaches in the area. It has a tube section out the back and then some incredible walls for carving too.
Good to know. Apparently, Peruvians have been wave-riding for thousands of years. Talk to me about that…
Yes. Ancient Peruvians based on the coast of Peru were and still are using the "Caballitos de Totora" crafts made out of Totora reed, shaped like surfboards that are mainly used for fishing, but also to play in the waves and surf them. They have been using those crafts for over 3,000 years. There is actually a big controversy to whom invented surfing. Surfing as we know it was first known to be from Hawaii, but if you read Thor Heyerdal’s book you will see that there was a constant connection between ancient Peruvians and Polynesians, and who knows, we might have taken the art of surfing there.
It is interesting stuff! Not to totally change the subject, but wasn’t there a situation where Chicama was threatened, but an organization helped to protect it?
A few years ago, our wave was threatened with the potential construction of a 2km long pier, which sought to convert Chicama into an export port for agricultural and mining production. That's why we asked for help from the Surf Federation of Peru, who put us in contact with the NGO Conservemos por Naturaleza and its subsidiary Hazla por tu Ola. They were in charge of registering Chicama in RENARO, as a wave protected by the Law of Rompientes of Peru (Peru’s Wave Protection Law). Chicama Boutique Hotel financed all the required studies and actively participated in meetings with the authorities. This is how Chicama became one of the first waves protected by law in the world.
Wow. Good work! Any other amenities or activities around Chicama Boutique Hotel to mention?
Yeah, pretty much everything is set up to provide surfers (and families) the perfect stay here. There’s board storage, changing rooms, spinners to dry your wetsuit, saunas and jacuzzis overlooking the surf, and our outstanding team that provide incredible service. You could ride our bikes along the new boardwalk or into town, do walks along the cliff or around all the beaches, go fishing, and even do tours to Pre-Inca ruins.