Southern Africa’s Hidden Gem
A check-in with Nelia Tasioulas, surf guide and lodge manager at Turtle Cove in Tofinho, Mozambique.
Thermal: What originally drew you to Tofo/Tofinho, Mozambique where Turtle Cove is located?
Nelia Tasioulas: My husband Nic discovered Tofo and Tofinho in the late eighties. He ventured up the coast of Mozambique in search of waves and a more untamed area of Africa. When he discovered Tofinho, he instantly fell in love with the wave and the place. Around 1994, he returned to settle permanently in Tofinho and built Turtle Cove as a rustic surf camp.
I started coming up the coast around 1998, but it was not until 2006 that I finally made the big shift to come and settle permanently with Nic at Turtle Cove. Prior to my move to Tofo, I owned a holistic travel company, taking people to swim with wild dolphins in Southern Mozambique. It was a massive decision to choose between my life in the south, or to follow Nic to Tofo. The magnificent Yoga Shala (or, rather, Temple) that he built for me, as well as my love for this little gem of a place, was enough to sway my heart and the rest is history.
Tell us about Mozambique. Neighboring South Africa always seems to get so much of the limelight when it comes to surf travel…
Mozambique is a total hidden gem. It is mind-blowing to see how slow tourism has been considering how magnificently beautiful and untouched the country is. And yet, despite being so untouched, it does offer the modern amenities that one likes while on holiday—great restaurants, good WiFi connection, good roads, awesome fresh markets, a ton of incredible excursions to explore the greater area and culture, etc. Our biggest challenge is (and, always has been) the flights. The flights to Inhambane (our airport) are sometimes unreliable and expensive, particularly in comparison to internal flights in South Africa. But, we recently traveled around Mozambique ourselves for the first time in ten years. We could not believe how beautiful, wild, and untouched the Elephant Reserve was for example. There is so much to see and experience here.
Although it might be a bit of a challenge getting here, it is worth all the effort. People often get “stuck” here and never leave after coming for a holiday. It is that kind of place. With our international School only 10kms from Tofo, and the growing number of families that are settling here, it is really a paradise for families.
Sounds dreamy. And your spot, Turtle Cove, what about the experience there sets a trip apart from others, in your opinion?
Turtle Cove is close to the wave, it’s inexpensive, it kind of tick all the boxes—good value for money, beautiful surroundings, private and tranquil, yoga and cool activities, and kid-friendly. My husband and I always joke and say when we travel that we want to find something like Turtle Cove. Tofinho is not nearly as consistent as places like Indonesia...although, there is normally a wave to catch and enjoy. When it gets good, it is amazing! These times are generally during the winter months and during Spring Tides. There are other waves around Tofo, or an hour or so out of Tofo, too. We recently discovered a great wave that is perfect when there is a North Wind. Barra and Pomene also offer great waves, depending on the wind. There certainly are other good waves to explore and enjoy nearby!
Besides the surf, though, this coming weekend, we are celebrating the Spring Equinox. We are hosting a little Earth Dance Party, with amazing music, in a cozy outdoor setting (around a fire, of course), with good friends and just good vibes all round. We have these types of gatherings frequently. Turtle Cove prides itself on these intimate, uplifting gatherings that are actually ideal for everyone—even for children. We feel life should be celebrated, particularly in these times! We host Full Moon Womens Circles, Yoga Retreats, Plant Ceremonies, Constellation retreats, to name just a few.
So, what kind of travelers would you say normally enjoy this corner of Mozambique the most?
People who love the outdoors, and love the environment to be a little raw (not overly refined and pruned, I mean). If you enjoy exploring and finding places that are still relatively untainted by tourism itself, then this is a great zone. And, of course, people who love scuba diving, kite surfing, surfing...anything to do with the ocean. Our beaches are pristine and our waters are clear and balmy.
Yeah, talk to me about the wildlife in Mozambique…I’ve heard you can swim with whale sharks or something?
Yes, Tofo attracts a large amount of tourists for our whale sharks, as well as the humpback whales that come to our area to breed between June and October. Whale Shark Ocean Safaris run throughout the year. Basically, people go out on a boat and snorkel with the whale wharks. During winter months they have the extra bonus of coming very close to the humpbacks, too. But apart from the ocean wildlife that we have in Mozambique, there are also some incredible Game Reserves. The Gorongosa Game Reserve is about 6 hours away from Tofo and an absolute gem. So is the Maputo Elephant Reserve. I have grown up visiting game parks, yet, I was totally in awe of the beauty of the Elephant Reserve. It is so worth visiting!