Guide Spotlight: Tereva David, Tahiti.
Out in the vast blue expanse of the South Pacific are the islands of Polynesia, home to a culture that is just as much a part of the ocean as they are to any piece of land. There are over 1,000 islands, spread across an area that is more than twice the size of Canada, but for the sake of this story, I will focus on one, Tahiti. I traveled there last June to meet Tereva David who, from the minute he picked me up at the airport, treated me like a brother. I stayed at his family compound and met his siblings, nephews, cousins, and even got to experience a Tahitian feast for his father’s, Heifara (aka “Paturo” the master chef), birthday.
We surfed nearly every day and it was usually just us plus a few of his friends. It didn’t take me long to realize that he knew every single Tahitian that was in the water. Whether they were uncles that he knew since his childhood, peers with whom he grew up, or younger surfers that he mentored and coached, they all showed each other a deep mutual respect.
In the water, you can tell that Tereva is just as at home as the fish on the reef below. He has a supernatural sense for reading the ocean and knows just how to position himself on the reef to catch the best waves. This is most apparent when you see him in the barrel, better yet, when you see him fully disappear behind a heavy turquoise curtain…only to emerge seconds later as the wave spits out. He doesn’t miss a beat and quickly gets on rail to lay down a huge carve or hack off the top and then set up for whatever’s next.
While I was there, there were no XXL days but I’ve seen plenty of footage that shows Tereva as deep as can be on giant (and terrifying) waves at Teahupo’o. On those days it becomes a sort of family affair–his uncle Poto leads the Tahitian water safety program while Tereva and his cousins and friends tow each other in, and rescue each other out, of mind-blowing waves. Sure, there are typically plenty of visiting surfers trying to score massive ‘chopes’, but the Tahitians undoubtedly run the show. It’s Tereva’s master ability to read and surf Tahiti’s waves, regardless of the size, that made him the top candidate to coach the ISA Olympic training camps held at Teahupo’o last summer. Over two weeks he hosted athletes from 10+ countries and clued them in how to surf and survive the world’s heaviest wave.
Just one of the many beautiful things about Tahiti is that sharing is part of the culture. You can easily feel this with Tereva, not only is he an Olympic-level coach and surf guide, he is an overall incredible host who shares his passion for the Tahitian culture with all of his guests. Whether it’s going to his favorite snack (local term for a casual restaurant or food truck) for a poisson cru or a crepe, cooking up an Uru (breadfruit), or passing you a cold Hinano, Tereva makes you feel right at home.
This may sound obvious but that makes a huge difference when paddling out to new spots, especially in Tahiti. Instead of being just another foreigner who has come looking for perfect waves in paradise, you are a guest who’s being invited to share waves. In the lineup, arriving surfers greet each other by saying “Iaorana”, typically paddling up to each and every surfer in the lineup and offering a shaka, shake, or fist bump, or at least making eye contact and nodding in acknowledgment and respect. It’s intimate and intense–in a good way. You can’t pretend you didn’t see them or act like they don’t exist, that’s not the Tahitian way. There’s a lot we can all learn from this simple act of kindness.
It’s worth mentioning that Tereva’s crew happens to be some of the best surfers in Tahiti, if not the world. Some of them, like Michel Bourez, Eimeo Czermak, Kauli Vaast, Vahine Fierro, Aelan Vaast, and Tahurai Henry, are big names in our little surfing world. Countless others are unknown to those who have not visited the islands and seen them up close.
One day, we surfed a wave near town and he told me the story of a friend who had beaten Kelly Slater in his prime, in multiple contests and was regarded as the best tube rider anyone had ever seen. He continues to surf, (a better word would be charge) whenever he goes out at his local spot–which isn’t well-known, but it is certainly a world-class wave. Yet he dropped out of competition years ago, he simply didn’t care to become a “famous surfer”. Surfing, just like spearfishing and freediving, was simply in his blood and he didn't need outside validation. Like his ancestors before him, he was a waterman through and through.
Not long ago, Polynesians traveled vast distances across these seas under the guidance of the Wayfinder. In a time when most people can’t even get across their city without relying on their GPS, it's nearly impossible to think of navigating the oceans relying only on natural cues such as the stars and the movement of waves.
Tahiti is every bit as beautiful as any postcard (or IG reel) you have ever seen, it is hard to even put it into words but when you are there you see just how stunning it really is, to put it simply, it hits different. Truth be told, it almost felt like a pilgrimage to a holy site. My time with Tereva gave me an insider's look at how the locals live in what is surely one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Maururu roa.
If you want to travel to Tahiti with Tereva you can reach out anytime:
Iaorana - Hello
Maururu roa- Thank you very much